Cranes and Champagne, March 2010 (1): Lac du Der-Chantecoq

Place d'Armes, Vitry-le-François

Mid-March 2010 saw a return to the Champagne region, this time with Dave Thomas, for a mixture of birding and photography. With the idea of a guide to the area in mind - giving the excuse to revisit this fabulous spot a few more times in different seasons - this trip gave chance to revisit some of the spots looked at in winter 2009 for photos and key birds. A trip report of last year's visit can be found here; no written report this year, as it was just a follow-up.

After the drive from Calais, we toured Lac du Der. The first spring migrants were around and other highlights were a very confiding Black Redstart at Presque 'Île de Champaubert (left) and a group of Tree Sparrows in a Hawthorn on the dyke at La Brèche.

After staying overnight at Au Bon Sejour in Vitry-le-François, and taking in a great little bar and pizzeria on the east side of Place d'Armes, we headed back to Der and then on to La Ferme aux Grues near Isson (left) where about 700 Common Cranes were on the fields.

There were lots of farm and woodland birds around at La Ferme, with Greenfinches (left), Goldfinches and Chaffinches, Brambling, Blackbird, House and Tree Sparrows and Great and Marsh Tits all constantly around, most visiting the feeders, and a Song Thrush sang non-stop for a couple of hours. Further away, a Skylark was in good voice, a pair of Jays provided colour and a Red Kite flew over.

Satiated of cranes, we headed off to Forêt d'Orient and Troyes.

Common Cranes come in to land at La Ferme aux Grues

(photo by David Thomas)

The Call of the Crane: Champagne Lakes and Forests, March 2009

Lac du Der from the northern Route de Digue, March 2009

The vast Champagne lakes and forests region in northern France, 75 miles south-east of Reims, is one of my favourite places. Lac du Der-Chantecoq is the largest artificial lake in Europe and a stopping off point for tens of thousands of Common Cranes on migration between wintering grounds to the south and breeding areas in northern Europe. Foret d'Orient Regional Nature Park is a rolling landscape of reservoirs and lakes nestled in dense forest and a particularly good site for three woodpecker species not found in the UK, including the Black Woodpecker, the largest woodpecker found north of the equator from the Atlantic to the Bering Sea.

Common Cranes at La Ferme aux Grues (photo by Heather)

Heather and I spent a few days exploring both in March 2009, and the sight of the cranes coming in to roost in their thousands whilst their trumpeting calls echo across Lac du Der is truly memorable. A group of Wild Boar could distantly be seen swimming between the islands. Managed to get great views of Black and Middle-spotted Woodpecker and a trip report can be found on Travelling Birder. Troyes, the prefecture capital, is a great place to stay - the old town of half-timbered houses and narrow streets is reckoned to be the best place to experience what Europe would have looked like in the 16th century. It has some great restaurants and mellow nightlife. We also stayed at a great little gite, L'Embarc, in Arrigny.

 Presque 'Île de Champaubert on Lac du Der,

church of the flooded village Champaubert-aux-Bois