The Morvan, Burgundy, May 2008 (2): Regional Nature Park

Classic scenery of The Morvan Regional Nature Park

(photo by mcbardin via Creative Commons)

The superb Morvan Regional Nature Park (RNP) is a large area: 173,000 hectares (427,000 acres), equivalent to the size of the Yorkshire Dales or more than three times the size of the New Forest. Leaving behind the plains of the Champagne region and driving south into this granite massif, comprising half dense woodland and half pasture, makes it clear just what a special place this is: the heavy rainfall feeds lush vegetation, five huge lakes and the rivers and tributaries of the Yonne and Cure rivers all set in an intimate, rolling landscape that is home to bountiful wildlife and fantastic areas to walk, ride and relax.

Our visit started at the Maison du Parc in Saint-Brisson, on the D6 road just north of Taureau lake. The centre has a number of different areas looking at different themes: the Ecomusée has interactive displays taking you through the development of the landscape with its people and wildlife; a Tourism Centre has the usual information on walks and attractions; and there is an attractive arboretum and garden area.

Meadows of orchids near Saint-Brisson, The Morvan RNP

The area that kept most of our attention, however, was the Museum of the Resistance. From 1940, the Maquis - the predominantly rural guerilla bands of the French Resistance - made extensive use of the Morvan in the Second World War, using its difficult terrain and isolation as a refuge from and to counter attack the occupying German army. Aided only by Allied parachute drops of food and equipment, the Maquis liberated most of the region in 1944. Nonetheless, many villages were destroyed and arrests, deportations and executions were common occurrences. This museum remembers this painful period with photographs, film, uniforms, weaponry, propaganda and even poetry, with audioguides in English, French and Dutch.

With the weather reasonable, we chose one a 90 minute walk starting from the Maison du Parc to stretch our legs. This took us west of the village along green lanes through woodland, wet grassland and meadows. The scenery is beautiful: creamy-coated Charolais cattle graze the pastures and wild flowers coat every field and verge. The birdlife was lively, with Red-backed Shrike seen and a Garden Warbler entertaining us with its varied song. As we returned past lake Taureau, a Black Kite glided over the water and above us.
Saint-Brisson, Morvan RNP, Burgundy

Keen to get further into the park, we moved from our hotel in Vézelay to camp at Lac des Settons, 50km further south. Arriving at the pleasant Camping Plage du Midi in time for dinner, awaiting us was horribly wet weather and one of those evenings when you really don't want to be in a tent!
Lac des Settons, by Akial via Creative Commons


The rain eased off the following lunchtime long enough for us to explore tracks east along the shore and into the nearby country through meadows and wet woodland. A Hoopoe kept our spirits up, its song reaching us nearby before we were able to watch it fly over us and away across the fields.


Unfortunately the rain returned later in the afternoon and we took advantage of the campsite's covered outdoor area for drinks and cooking. An inquisitive Common Redstart was a constant companion. However, with more wet weather forecast, we decided to move on again to the Loire Valley.