Isle of Mull, October 2011

Otter at The Shielings, Craignure Bay

Just back from a two week trip to Canada, I was straight off again with our photographer chief (cousin Dave) for a week's stint on the Isle of Mull, with camping, birding and playing with a very expensive 400mm lens all in store.

It started well enough, with a fine sunset over our campsite at Killiechronan, at the head of Loch na Keal, where we had a stunning view over the beach and the obliging Whooper Swans, Curlew and other waders.

We woke to the dark skies and on-and-off rain that would accompany us for the rest of the week but, more importantly, two White-tailed Eagles were sat quietly on the beach - as they would be on the next two mornings as well. We also had fantastic views of them in flight around the head of the loch and perched in the tops of nearby conifers; there are several roadside pull-offs where you can stop to scan for the birds.

The weather rapidly deteriorated, with gale force winds and driving rain leading to dripping wet camera gear, soaked clothes and a tent pole snapping like a dry twig at 5am...so the following day we relocated to the fixed (and heated!) tents at The Shielings in Craignure. This was a great spot, overlooking the coast, and a with two minute walk we could sit and scan the sea and shoreline for passing seabirds, migrants and otters, with some success. We had good views of Red-throated Diver, passing Guillemots and superb views of flying and diving Shags and Cormorants. The resident Otter was also rather curious of us and showed on two days on shoreline rocks within ten metres, as well as giving longer-range views swimming and feeding.

Eas Fors waterfall: the lower falls plummet 100 feet onto the beach

After a couple of wet days exploring some of the local sights, we had some decent weather in the north of the island and out on the Isle of Iona. From the Iona ferry we spotted a small group of Barnacle Geese flying south and later located a single at Fidden.

We explored Grasspoint on a couple of occasions to watch and photograph the rutting Red Deer; the stag was extremely vocal (in fact, the whole island echoed to the sound of bellowing stags!) and he had a large group of perhaps 30 hinds. This area is Buzzard central and we also enjoyed watching a hunting female Hen Harrier.

Loch Don was perhaps the biggest surprise of the week; it hadn't turned up much in the pre-trip research but this very tidal sea loch is superb for waders, gulls and duck with the added bonus of a large raptor roost. We visited only shortly before dusk on our last night but had Turnstone, Ringed Plover, Curlew, Goldeneye and Goosander; this will be first stop next time. The roost had up to 13 Hen Harriers in the week we were there.

All in all a superb trip, despite the weather, and the island definitely lived up to its reputation as one of the UK's top wildlife destinations; we'll be back in the spring, for sure.