Champagne, May 2013 (3): Foret d'Orient & Lac Amance

After overnighting in Troyes and enjoying the old town, I awoke to spend my birthday - 21 again - out in the sunshine around Foret d'Orient Regional Nature Park. Unfortunately the sun hadn't read the script and it was a tad overcast and showery.

Foret du Temple (above & below)

After a quick stop at the Maison du Parc (where the D43 and D79 meet in the north-east corner of Lac d'Orient) to look at the books and leaflets, I drove to my favourite area of the park: Foret du Temple, accessed by the Route Forestiere du Temple just under 3km east of the Maison du Parc. This area of forest is known to be good for woodpeckers in the winter and spring, although I had no expectation of what I might find in May - I was just hoping for a better return than my trip to Cornee du Der the day before.

I initially headed out away from my favourite area and instead followed the Salamander discovery trail which runs through the forest and along the south-east margins of Lac du Temple. It was an interesting stroll but only commoner woodland birds were around for the most part. However, a Great-Spotted Woodpecker drummed nearby and a Green Woodpecker laughed at me from out of sight somewhere. Halfway along the trail, the heavens opened for a few minutes and I sheltered under a tree to keep my kit dry. Afterwards, the clouds disappeared and it was blue skies for the rest of the day.

Heading back along the trail I had a little more luck, with a Marsh Tit alighting very close to me and a Golden Oriole singing away. Under my feet, too, there was something to look at - a group of four Dor Beetles seemed to be feasting on one of their own dead, not something I was aware that these dung beetles did - although if you'll eat dung, I suppose there's not much that'll put you off!



Back at the car park, I headed east into the more mature woodland where I'd had the greatest success in the past. But, again, birds were few and far between and the thick canopy meant relying on my ears more than my eyes for identification. A singing Wood Warbler made the effort all worthwhile though with stunning views.

Wood Warbler, by Frank Vassen under CCSA

With birdlife at a premium I instead strolled back via the sunny forest rides, enjoying the wild flowers and butterflies. Looking more at my feet than where I was going, I looked up to see three Wild Boar crashing out of the undergrowth no more than a dozen yards in front of me - I'm not sure who was more startled! They ran as if for their lives down the ride away from me, before making a sharp right back into the thick understorey. My best views ever of this elusive species!






With little else to report, I headed to my home for the next couple of nights: Camping Les Rives du Lac, on the north shore of Lac d'Orient just east of Geraudot village and flanked by both beautiful meadows and the woodland of Le Petit Orient. Heather and I had stayed here on our original foray in May 2008 and it is a pretty little site with good facilities. It was fairly quiet so I managed to secure the prime (for me) north-west corner pitch, number 078, overlooking the large oak in the meadow, the edge of the forest and an area of scrub. In the by now roasting sunshine, I nodded off in the car before managing to energise myself to pitch the tent. After some quick 'Happy Birthdays' on Skype, dinner was superb pizza and Bordeaux at the nearby pizzeria.

Camping Les Rives du Lac, Geraudot

With Sunday morning starting heavy and overcast, I was in no hurry to get out and about (nothing to do with the red wine) and instead had a leisurely breakfast at the campsite, watching a Black Redstart darting around and listening to the Blackcaps and a Melodious Warbler in the nearby scrub. Eventually I managed to roust myself and headed towards the north-eats of the park area. I stopped at the outfall channel of Lac d'Auzon-Temple and climbed the steps to look out over the lake. House Martins were attending to the nests under the outfall structure, a Corn Bunting sang from around the car park and Linnets hopped from bush to bush.

 Outfall channel, Lac d'Auzon-Temple

A few miles further on I reached Lac Amance, the smallest of the three lakes in the park but possibly the most interesting. On its western edge, just south of the canal that runs from Lac d'Auzon-Temple, a gravel car track leads to a large observatory hide. I've had some good birds here previously, the highlight perhaps being a Little Bittern in May 2008, but it's also a pleasant view and a great place to contemplate the world. Today, a couple of Black Terns were amongst the Common Terns out over the lake, whilst a pair of Reed Buntings, a Sedge Warbler and a Great Reed Warbler entertained amongst the reeds and scrub.

 Lac Amance from the hide (above & below)

Stretching for more than half a kilometre south-east of the hide is a good area of semi-natural wet grassland (left), and I strolled further along the track to view. A Red-backed Shrike moved along the fenceline with me and a Corn Bunting was singing nearby. A Nightingale sang from the depths of some willow scrub.

The track continues along the lake's south-west shore and can be used to cut through to the D443 between Dienville and Amance. I hadn't followed it before and, with the sun shining, now seemed like a good time. I pootled along in the Alfa, taking time to check out some good viewpoints of the reedbed and lake. I found a beautiful spot with a picnic bench overlooking the lake for lunch.

More views from along the track by Lac Amance (above & below)

With the car windows down, I overheard a storm of birdsong coming from an area of scrub on the right-hand side - named on the map as Le Colombier (the Dovecote - although I couldn't see one). Standing in a gateway, I could hear Blackcap, Chiffchaff and the reeling of a Grasshopper Warbler. Around a corner I found a causeway across the lake's end (left) and, on the far side, some mature oak woodland meant to be quite good for woodpeckers; a half hour walk didn't turn up more than a Green but it's another spot to try in spring.

Eventually, after a thoroughly enjoyable time along Lac Amance, I joined the D443 and turned south. Just a kilometre past Amance village, a male harrier was quartering the road verge and as I passed I got a glimpse of barring under the wings. Montagu's? Another kilometre down the road, I looped round in a lay-by and sped back. A pair of Montagu's Harriers were now gliding together over the adjacent farmland and, with no traffic coming, I was able to stop and get amazing views and spot all the differences between them and Hen Harrier. Eventually the traffic did start moving and I relocated to a nearby side-road to watch further.

Male Montagu's Harrier, by Andy Li under CCSA

I explored some lakeside spots on Lac d'Orient without much to report and instead decided for an early departure the following day to check out the famous Platier d'Oye reserve near Calais. It's really best in winter and on migration but I managed to pick out a Mediterranean Gull amongst the nesting Black-headeds from the Maison dans la dunes hide and enjoyed the Avocets before a rather rough crossing home to Blighty.