North Norfolk Broads, September 2012 (1): Stalham to Salhouse by boat

 On the river Ant: passing the moorings at How Hill

With a long-awaited long weekend in the Lakes beckoning, the wet weather forecast for the north poured cold water on our plans. The Indian summer was continuing down south, however, so lovely Heather suggested something new: a boating break on the Norfolk Broads, a national park since 1988. Knowing I had another September weekend already booked for some Lakeland fell tramping and Jennings sipping, I agreed it was a great idea.

Growing up on the Arthur Ransome books, the Broads hold almost as much appeal as the Lakes for me. I've been exploring Swallows and Amazons territory every year since I was a kid, but this would be my first chance to really get to know the home of the Coot Club and the Big Six - and what better way to do it than from the water. With learning to sail still an unfulfilled ambition, we browsed the motor cruisers available at short notice and settled on 32 footer Ruby Gem, one of the smaller craft available that slept up to four people and seemed suitable for beginners, plus it had a sliding canopy at the front so we could enjoy the sun as we went...

Home for three nights: the Ruby Gem I at Stalham staithe

Arriving at Richardson's Holidays' yard at Stalham staithe, Ruby Gem's home port, we were well looked after and shortly began our 20 minute instruction session. The boat was fairly simple to operate and drive once you got used to the stern swinging out as you turned, and only parking presented any real difficulty. After loading up, we were off to our first port of call at the slow-sounding speed limit of 4mph, but this seems pretty fast when you're suddenly left in charge of your first boat! We'd arrived approaching 5pm, although pick-up starts from 2.30pm, so at this time of year we only had about two hours of light left to find somewhere for the night and were aiming for Ludham as it presented the first possible pub stop.

It was a beautiful evening as we left the boat yard and headed downstream along the River Ant, opening up to 6mph where the limits allowed. There was not much moving traffic but most of the obvious riverside mooring places were already taken. We took turns getting used to the feel of the boat whilst enjoying the sinking warm sun and the riverside scenery. Behind us we towed a small dinghy, swiftly christened Little Jack by Heather, for general mucking-about purposes. After about a half hour, the river opened up into our first broad, Barton Broad, and we dutifully stayed between the posts marking the deeper water and smiled like veterans at the Richardson's rescue boat towing a grounded cruiser out of the shallows. Barton also began to highlight just what wildlife opportunities boating would afford, with Mute Swan, Great Crested Grebe and various gulls all within arms reach as we sailed along and, as we re-entered the river at the south end, a Kingfisher flashed across to perch in an overhanging branch just a dozen metres away.

Sunset scenery between Barton & Ludham

Under a glorious sunset, we kept good speed up along the river, passing How Hill's staithe and National Nature Reserve. With dusk quickly approaching, we passed the very full moorings at Ludham, eased under Ludham Bridge and managed to squeeze on the end of a row of boats in the boat yard without sinking ourselves or anyone else. After a quick change, we tried to reach the nearby main road on foot but quickly realised we were trapped inside the yard...and so it was that we found ourselves in the dinghy, me rowing badly against the current in the dark through the boat yard to the bridge, before jumping out and running down the road to The Dog Inn and getting there with a minute to spare to order food! Dinner was good - I can recommend the liver and bacon casserole - and the beer excellent: we discovered the local Wolf Brewery and Heather got a taste for their wheat beer, Straw Dog. At a slower pace, we ambled back to the dinghy and Heather rowed us back to the Ruby Gem in the pitch black, only colliding with one (thankfully unoccupied) boat on the way.

After an admittedly poor night's sleep - the bed in the rear cabin is perhaps not great for anyone over 5ft 10" and a couple used to a super king size - we woke to the sun burning off a thin mist over the busy river. By 10am, after a quick breakfast, we were casting off and heading onwards down the River Ant, glancing at the map of navigable rivers and broads to see where we might head. A flock of 30 Lapwing milled around overhead as we passed Horning Marshes and approached the convergence with the River Bure.

Negotiating traffic on the River Bure

We turned west towards Horning; traffic was building now on a section of river that's not overly wide and we were pleased to have had some driving practice the evening before. There were obviously some other first timers; the boat in front of us was having some problems with straight lines whilst having to deal with a yacht tacking towards us - powered craft give way to sail so there's some judgement required in when to slow and when's a good opportunity to sneak past. The sun was warm and we were happy to pootle along at a slow pace, enjoying the fresh air, scenery and wildlife.

Keen to explore, we swung south into Ranworth Dam with half a mind to moor up and visit the village, but as Malthouse Broad opened up we could see the hard was quite full and, with doubts still about our parking skills, we decided to circuit around and head somewhere a little quieter.
 

NWT's Broads Wildlife Centre at Ranworth Broad

Southern Comfort paddle boat, near Horning

Quiet wasn't the definition for passing through Horning, however. It was Saturday lunchtime now and all the moorings were full, especially alongside the waterside pubs and restaurants. However, I thoroughly enjoyed this stretch: Horning is at the centre of Ransome's Big Six adventures and I was revelling in being on their turf, flicking through the Broads chapters in Christina Hardyment's own tracing of his footsteps in Arthur Ransome and Captain Flint's Trunk as we passed. There are some beautiful holiday homes along the riverfront and we found ourselves taking pictures of some to check out for future visits.

Looking east across Hoveton Little Broad

As we eventually passed the western limits of the village, we turned immediately north and into Hoveton Little Broad. Also known as Black Horse Broad after a pub that used to be nearby, this was a secluded and peaceful spot with a few boats moored up - including one of the eight surviving  traditional Norfolk wherries, Solace - and a sailing boat doing laps.


We found a space in the north-west corner of the broad, stopped, and dropped the front anchor. The breeze was light so the boat wasn't swinging much. After some lunch, eaten in the sun on deck, we decided to take the chance to practice our rowing, and took Little Jack for a spin. Afterwards, Heather relaxed on the boat with her Kindle and the camera whilst I rowed right around the broad (I needed the extra practice!).

Norfolk wherry Solace

Heather rows Little Jack, with Ruby Gem far right

After a couple of hours of relaxation, Sunday was wearing on and a decision on our evening stop was needed. The Bure was quietening now as the weekenders headed home and we motored 3.5km further up the river to moor in Salhouse Broad for about 5pm. There were lots of moored boats, especially at the little staithe on the south side, but little movement. We anchored well away from others in a corner near the wooded eastern shore, locked up and rowed Little Jack to one of a few sheltered coves on the southern shore.

It was a warm and sunny evening and we enjoyed a slow stroll along the south-east shore of the broad and then south for a few hundred metres on a public footpath to the Salhouse Road. From here it was a kilometre or so along the road to the Woodforde Brewery's home pub, the Fur and Feather Inn. I've been a Woodforde's fan since my first birding trip to Norfolk and, with the brewery just next door, the full range of ales was on tap - not ideal when you have even a short distance to walk and row back to your residence! I resorted to halves in order to give the range a good sampling... The food was also good, I tried their famous 3 hour steamed steak and kidney suet pudding and there were four veggie options for Heather to choose from.

Stomachs full and heads light, we wandered back, fell into the boat and into bed for a second night afloat.